Winter is coming…

Unfortunately, in winter the majority of Russian boat owners forced to pause in navigation associated with the need to wait out the cold, and in order not to miss the beginning of next season, to help your engine, in particular a suspension, to deal with them. In other words, there should be some pre-season preservation.

The first and main question: to do it or not? The answer is simple: do it! Moreover, whether the motor be kept outside or in a warm room. Conservation is not so much of the engine to frost, as to what mechanisms will be stationary for a long time. A simple long without training could lead to phenomena, the consequence of which would be the cost of repair and regret about lost time and a short navigation.

  • Power unit motor Mercury F 80 ELPT EFI. In order to avoid errors, carefully review the information on the nameplate fixed to the engine cover

I will explain in more detail, and begin with 4-stroke of podvizhnikov. During long periods of inaction the principal risk — acidification piston rings. On the probability of occurrence of this phenomenon is influenced by many factors that are difficult to foresee: for example, quality of fuel and oil, operating modes, etc. — Believe the probability is quite high. When the engine is started in the spring you will hardly notice a drop in power, due to the fact that ring offset the piston because of this is skewed, and one side of the piston there is increased friction, and on the other blowby. Where increased friction will increase the wear and blowby leads to the fact that start to burn oil, soot is formed which will become abrasive. The result at least — to increased wear, as a maximum — the engine to seize.

What about 2-stroke engines where the fuel is mixed with oil? During long-term storage, the fuel evaporates and the oil remains, thickens and becomes adhesive, which can block the mobility of, for example, of the needle in the carburetor float chamber or, more dangerously, the valve in the channel for lubricating the upper bearing of the crankshaft. In the best case in the spring the engine will not start, at worst you risk a bearing failure with all ensuing consequences. I hope, convinced.

Question the second: to carry out conservation on their own or in the service? You decide. In itself the preservation — the procedure is simple (though it rather refers to outboard engines, and for stationary is not so clear). Before conservation strongly recommend to do a routine that no longer seems so easy.

There are some operations that require special tools and skills; in addition, IT is not just performing procedures prescribed by the manufacturer, but analysis of the condition of the engine, with possible identification of existing or potential breakdowns. For this analysis requires special knowledge and experience.

  • Before shutting the motor perform of MOT

For 4-stroke engines maintenance before winter storage are more critical than the 2-stroke. In the engine oil, and left to spend the winter, the spring will drop out the sediment, which, when simple substitution will remain in the system and after the start of operation will instantly ruin a new oil and filter, which will reduce the effect of their replacement to zero.

A small digression about. Try to use only original consumables. The savings on the purchase of products of small producers will be small, and quality assurance in our conditions is still quite “wild capitalism” nobody will give you. Mechanics official services will tell you a lot of stories about parts of the filters, who scored the galleries, and similar effects of the economy.

Preservation. We now turn to the procedure itself. Just specify that the following procedures are universal for outboard and inboard engines, but stationary, in addition, require Strait or run cooling system antifreeze and certain additional procedures, depending on the specific model. For example, withdrawals on winter of the impeller of the pump of the cooling system, releasing the tension on the belts etc, So once again I appreciate the available resources and skills in conservation on their own.

A General requirement for all types of engines — carrying out corrosion protection. After use in salt water thoroughly flush all parts and systems of the engine, including the cooling system (run engine in fresh water); especially be careful in threaded connections and contact locations steel and aluminum. Replace worn-out anodes. Treat all damaged paint sealant.

Differences. 4-stroke engines it is necessary to preserve the cylinder-piston group and to stabilize the fuel. For its stabilization in the tank, add the appropriate volume of fuel amount of a stabilizer (stabilizer not pour directly from the container into the fuel filler, as most of it will remain on the walls of the hose, and pre-dissolve in a small amount of fuel) and start the engine, allowing it to run on fuel with stabilizer. If the engine is on the beach, don’t forget about the cooling. To drain the fuel system after the procedure is not necessary.

For preservation of piston remove the candles, add the preservative composition and crank the engine. Do it manually at the flywheel, not the starter, in order not to damage the elements of the ignition system. Outboard motor when it is desirable to maximize throw.

2-stroke engines, in addition to the stabilization of fuel and conservation of the piston, it is necessary that the preservative was in the crank mechanism. To do this, the preservative composition should be submitted in the fuel system when the engine is running. Wherein the fuel system after the procedure needs to be drained. How to do it?

  • For preservation piston system pour the preservative composition in the plug hole and crank the engine

Draining the fuel system is best done on the water, as the engine will have to work for quite a long time. Add stabilizer to the fuel tank and run the engine for about 20 minutes. For the first 10 minutes the motor will have used up all the fuel that was in the system prior to the addition of a stabilizer (filters, hoses, etc.), and for the second will fill the system and will operate at stable fuel. The engine should not idle. Install the rpm just above idle for better venting of the crankcase and the combustion chamber. Disconnect the engine from the fuel tank and the first disruptions to continuously inject the preservative composition to the diffuser, at the same time adding gas to full. The engine should Rev up, “breathe” preservative and… stall. If you have not guessed the moment and the engine stalled before I increased the revs, the procedure must be repeated.

Outboard and speakers for winter storage should be in a vertical position.

In conclusion. Remember: for outboard engines there is no procedure “reactivation”. Lowered the boat into the water got and went. Don’t fall for the roguish technicians. But for stationary engines, as a rule, it is necessary to carry out such a procedure the preparation for the descent.

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