In August 2009 we went on sailing yacht Beneteau First 21 of the I/Vodnik to Kizhi and back. The boat was retrofitted with a smart battery Japanese motor 5.5 HP, battery charger with shore power socket, ibid. we drove a Honda generator, car fridge and camping toilets. The radio necessarily.
To improve the habitability of the cockpit sailing yacht I made of waterproof awning fabric canopy-tent, who pounced on a boom on top has been removed in the case of the cave, stretched in length and are fixed to the rails and racks with fasteners and carabiners. This greatly expanded the usable area of the boat – for example, we could have dinner at the table in the cockpit even in the rain. It has also become much warmer and drier inside.
Took the “Atlas of United deepwater system of European part of Russia” and a book by S. J. Moszkowski and M. B. Havin “From Moscow to Solovki by boat or yacht” as a guide. And “Kalevala” – for the who after this campaign from traditional literary readings – the book must be in subject of swimming, and everything has to Karelia gathered…
So – start. On the way to the North sea for small vessels, the main obstacle is the large number of gateways, and accurately calculate the time spent to overcome them, impossible. Timetable gateways attached under schedule of passenger ships, then usually sluuut trucks, and girls –those on a residual basis, if the space in the chamber left. If you are lucky, you can get through quickly, even used alone, we were clusively, as was the case in front of one of the Moscow gateway for a day hung.
Nice places start soon after Dubninskaya gateway. Along the North shore come across the beautiful quiet coves, where fish can be caught, and mushrooms along the banks to collect, and otter nose to nose to meet.
Went to Myshkin – a pretty town with numerous muzeychik, besides on the weekends when here come the boats with tourists at the pier takes place market – you can buy Souvenirs and delicious smoked fish of all kinds.
In the end, did not go, saving time – was there last year. I remember that came up to us an elderly woman with a badge Intourist, the Soviet of the guides offered to conduct a tour. We agreed and did not regret – it was very interesting.
On the approach to the bridge of the Volga river, the sky became dark blue, whence did the wave, counter squali and absolutely horizontal rain. Before going through the Rybinsk reservoir the night stopped in Petrykowska the Creek. When supper came, the yacht with four crew members. With the Trouts are all slightly worn, and senior us and said : “the Dinghy? You’d better not to go there!” The captain was offended for Dinghy and upset. I’m scared – for the first time tomorrow to go through the treacherous body of water with a very narrow fairway; horror as a yacht in the hut-houses swam, we still listened. Then to raise the morale of singing sea songs.
At five in the morning out in the fog. Warmly dressed, prepared, cleaned everything in the storm… Rybinka – sea! Banks appear on the horizon, but rarely and barely visible. And can’t help thinking that under you, not deep, flooded city streets, the remains of the buildings… Dark. But almost all the way we went on the motor, apparently the whole wind vydalsya yesterday.
At the entrance to the glorious steel city of Cherepovets – Smoking orange smoke pipe of AO Severstal, the company’s territory is huge – 15 sq km, it is the total area occupied by the city – 120. The air on the approach to the city – suitable. But the main street is literally saturated with vkusnyuschim smell of pastry-baking plant, this here is a sharp olfactory contrast.
In Cherepovets we purchased gasoline and products of three planned museums I managed to visit only the historical, but found the email sent friends postcards and put stamps in the logbook of a sailing yacht.
I must say that coming out of the Trouts in the river part of the Sheksna, we moved to the pages of the 3rd volume of the “Atlas..” that mandatory said. Then just changed the type of the buoys, and here is the channel feature in great detail. It is quite intricate, and not – depth and knee are available.
In sheksninskiy the gateway slusovice alone! This is the only gateway on the path that raises us. In the sheksninskoe reservoir, even went to 1x reefs was great sailing, faces weathered.
Another beautiful piece – Syzmanski spill. Spilled something he hoo, and the fairway is narrow, and the sides cocerage sticking out of the water. Ships counter the wind – as usual – right on the forehead. And we have – sailing!
But then we came to Topone and turned on the arrow-sign “Severo-Dvinskaya system” right. There are two small ancient gateway. We were very afraid – suddenly we were not allowed in Kirillov? But it turned out, slusovice very nice and here we go on a scenic 7-kilometer canal, decorated around the edges with pegs-logs, but Toplicki caught the eye Yes an eye!
Kirillo-Belozersky monastery is a wonderful place! Moored to the bridge “for washing”, as explained by a boy with a fishing rod, and for the night we will anchor close under the walls of the monastery – depth normal and very romantic.
Before going to a romantic place have long struggled with the logs, around which is wrapped the anchor chain. Horror.
The next day, the queue went on a tour of the museums of the monastery and washed in Cyril bath. At noon, sailed away, gone again Siverskoye lake, canal, our favorite sluice. Today change another. At the exit of the 2nd something touched the wheel – perhaps a log. He went out again in Sheksna.
Loved the sand, although the entrance was quite complicated. Was planning to go to port before dark. Had approached, was decent 5.5 knots, the sun was setting beautifully in the lake, and we could not look out for the entrance. Then the captain finally noticed in the distance a column of waves, or rather spray, which are formed when waves hit a pier. Yay! I approached the entrance, walkie – below the bridge was taken. Agreed not immediately but a breeze by the time it freshened, all sides of stone walls, breakwaters all sorts of milestones stick out. Circles five or six in such a narrow place, the captain cut until we were let in. Stood in the territory of the repair base.
Crossing White lake, alas, also passed on the motor. Water – mirror, and we dreamed of a beautiful sailing! Entered Couru.
The closer to Vytegra gateway the worse. After hearing tales of how people there for days, almost weeks, crashed. To Onega 70 km and six gateways. Contacted gateway room 6 , as soon as he became visible. Acted strictly in accordance with the recommendations of Moszkowski. XO documents stranded. Found the far left tower. When you are on the bridge between the towers of the gateway – breathtaking – such a height, and the bottom is the ship, the width and length of full lock! Not lazy zafotodokumentirovat.
In Vytegra locks started having problems with the motor – probably affected Cherepovets gasoline – began to stall at the most inopportune moments. As it turned out, the generator also began to act up. But thanks to the skillful actions and a bit of luck, everything turned out without consequences.
Vytegra. Bought food, went to the baths to wash in the river becomes cold. Wanted to visit the local Museum of waterways of the North, in particular, to learn more about the construction and designs of the Mariinsky water system, – failed, it seems he has even boarded up.
The next day out on the Lake. Convenient first blew the backstay, driving us up to 4.5 knots, but then began to subside, the waves were big enough shaking, sleepy. But soon the wind increased dramatically, and even taking the reefs, we ran very fast, the waves flooded the cockpit. The evening had taken refuge in Shokshinsky Bay, just in time. Was attached to a concrete wall. And then blew specifically. The two ends keep us behind and three in front. The first burst with a thick- “shlyuzovoy” -the rope caught on one nozzle held. Strengthened by linking mooring lines with the wounded. Sausage all night, and the barometer continued to fall steadily. What will it be tomorrow?
Morning we a little quieter I began to beat on the wall, but the wind remained, and the sky was solidly lined with clouds. Left Bay. Was in full backstay, putting only the grotto. We caught up with the waves getting bigger and bigger. The captain said that this is a storm, But the storm chocolate was not given. In my understanding, the storm is a collection of waves, rain and wind when scared and give out candy. So, until the storm.
Finally entered the Kizhi skerries. They are not as rocky as on lake Ladoga; passed the Museum island, considering the examples of wooden architecture, a 22-domed Transfiguration Church is particularly impressive. Stood behind the island opposite of the Kizhi Pogost, inflated the Dinghy, went to shore. Wanted to eat there, but at the time of shipment of products, it started raining. Put the tent and had dinner under him in the cockpit.
The next morning, untied and went to visit the Museum. Very beautiful here, really is a magical place. Looked at a few huts, was surprised at the utensils. On the second floors of houses are ciganki – local traditional boats. Each hut from the second floor is made of logs during the long winter evenings the people of kijanki did, glued, repaired, and in the spring took to the water. Near the pier – mail, then we put in the logbook of beautiful postage stamps with silhouettes of churches, the captain asked for as much as two – of greed, of importance in connection with the day of his birth. In memory of Kizhi we each bought a small picture of our new friend, artist Andrew is a very welcoming and open person, himself from Zelenograd, but several years living here, opposite the Museum. Draws, goes fishing. Prusnick at the berth is the bathhouse. Eh..
At the gala dinner of smoked whitefish with roasted potatoes and production of Sortavala distillery (five points!).
The next morning was disgusting – the whole sky is grey and the rain lasted until about six o’clock. We went to Anouska Islands, the goal is Lucotrol – beautiful, clean, with the remnants of seriously thought-out tourist settlements; berries, mosses, whimsical driftwood…. And in the morning sun, quite another matter! But the water here is already sharply colder on Kizhi bathed, and then ice. Going to look for the petroglyphs at Besov nos!
The Nose dropped off the XO with the camera. Where a sandy shore, a sort of superplay. The boat put on the entire length of the anchor end, I brought the Dinghy, no radio, no communication, saying to walk two hours. Rising on the banks higher up found the layout plan, where these same petroglyphs to look. The largest number of red crosses in the diagram was marked on the Cape Peri-nose, that’s where I went. What are the rocks, the huge Kamenyuki, and they fight the waves, the spray above the height of a man flying.
Peri-the nose is a combination of several small mysyky, I walked around it twice, no images and not seeing! With rich imagination can, of course, something called the ancient drawings, but it is only the patterns of the stone. Even the guys that went forward, asked, they said that it saw, but very small. It’s a shame, but I left with nothing. Under a thousand miles from home to get and find such famous pieces! Of course, we need to know what and where to look, or to you someone showed.
At night went to the mouth of the Black river. It’s so beautiful! Stood up in the stern of 1.5 m. from the shore, gave Tuzikova crossing. The captain immediately went for mushrooms. Well, quiet here. However, a lot of vipers – only boots to walk. And water really, completely black it looks.
Black river – Vytegra. Out of the mouth, remember, what’s the channel complex, we know where the stones are, see where the sand is. We leave, and there is such wetrogan in the forehead, and waves – the more trenchant. We are beginning to expand sideways and wear on the rocks, a motor chomps on a helpless wave. But somehow, he got out, raised the staysail, came out.. And badmind. General course up failed all the time was drifting towards the Eastern shores and headlands, there were some clouds, we periodically rifiles, fleeing from the storm. Then the captain heard a knock in the steering wheel. It was found that we almost lost him – hung on one razvenchivayuschie the bolt. On the go undertook the repair of the steering wheel saved. All in all this transition, against the wind, took 12 hours. But how happy we were to enter at last into the canal! I remembered Vizbor – ” How nice of your friends to survive!”
And again, Vytegra, gateways, Coura… White lake were the wind the backstay in just over three hours, some of the waves are accelerated to 8-9 knots. Much has become wet from spray and waves, already nepomucene could not resist.
Goritsy. There is a monastery. From the water he’s such a solid, solemn – it’s not like Ivan the terrible, boring wives anyhow-where the exile. And inside – complete devastation. However, in the cells on the left wall live, the stove works, vegetable gardens, farming, and restoration of the main temple is in full swing.
Syzmanski spill were calm backstay, go to sleep in Sheksna. The captain is piloting, I continue to study the Kalevala. In Sheksna attached to some rusty ship was attacked by the attention of a gang of three local boys. We first reported that tomorrow is the day of the city, ie village, different governors will come, including Matviyenko. Everything seriously.
The morning bought a product, bought two pairs of DRY socks. Matvienko did not wait, but went to take a shower in a hotel across the street. A very cute girl (doesn’t know, however, that for Kizhi such) even with money we did not get charged. Was poslushalas quickly.
Passed Cherepovets. We leave Rubinco – it was Sunny! The weather was perfect, dry things. Passing the courses was quite calm again over the city. Myshkin – landed for fuel.
Kalyazin, Dubna, and again the floodgates of the canal of Moscow. The second moved like us orientated Manager, by 6:30, but waited slusovice to half-past eleven. The gateway participants, and besides we had two boats, reported that we continue Dmitrov, not to go, is the ship “President” and all the attention – he’s green road. And then the flashing lights!
Standing, waiting. Sad that the wonderful journey is coming to an end. From the gateway came closer to midnight and in the morning, in native Water!
That’s all in brief.
Author: Elizaveta Fedorova